La Palma Carnival: Tuesday - Friday

Los Indianos, Santa Cruz de la Palma

Tuesday 16th
Santa Cruz de la Palma
5 pm Fancy dress ball in the senior citizens day centre, with live salsa music

Los Llanos
Cancelled

Wednesday 17th
Santa Cruz de la Palma
11 am Presentation of prizes in the town hall.

Los Llanos
11 am - 1 pm Children's activities, Plaza de España
8 pm Murgas, Plaza de España

Cancajos
8 pm the Octopus's Funeral followed by a dance



Thursday 18th
Los Llanos
7 pm Comparsas (musical groups) at the carnival stage
8 pm Murgas, Plaza de España

Friday 19th
Santa Cruz de la Palma
9 pm The Sardine's funeral. Procession from the Alameda to the carnival stage, followed by the cremation, fireworks and a dance.

Los Llanos
11 am - 1 pm Children's activities, Plaza de España
1 pm The Sardine's funeral starts at El Camino Los Lomos -Los Pedregales. At 7 pm the procession leaves for La Calle Ramón Pol. and should arrive a 9:30 pm. On it's arrival, the sardine will be cremated.
10 pm Live music at the carnival stage

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La Palma Carnival

One of my favourite things about carnival is the small kids in costume. I hope you enjoy it too.







Some of the

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Santa Cruz de la Palma Carnival Programme for the Weekend

Santa Cruz de la Palma will be starting Carnival tonight. If you're staying in town, it's a great spectacle, but you should probably buy ear-plugs, as the music will be loud, and most nights it will go on until about 2 am. On Monday there will still be people partying at dawn.

Where things are:
The Alameda Square is at the north end of town, next to the concrete ship.
The main carnival stage is on the sea-front car park - just follow the sound of music.
The Plaza España is just south of where the main street crosses El Puente - the main road perpendicular to the sea-front. Follow the main street until you find the crowd and the music.
The Post Office is at the southern end of the main street, Calle O'Daly. Come out of the port and turn left, or go to the tourist information office and look for the crowd.
The Cuadrilátero is a little difficult to explain. From the port, head along the sea-front for a block, then go one block inland.
The Balconies stage. Go along the sea-front until you see the famous, 17th century balconies
Avenida los Indianos is the main road heading south out of town, to the big roundabout.

Don't Drink and Drive
The legal limit for blood alcohol in Spain is 0.05%, which is lower than the UK. It's about two units of alcohol for most people, but a traditional rum and coke often contains three units. There will be extra buses and plenty of taxis.


Friday 12th
6 pm Kids' Parade from the Alameda square to the main carnival stage, followed by live music at the stage.
10 pm Live music at the main carnival stage


Saturday 13th Ambasadors' Parade
10 am Live music in the Alameda Square
6 pm Official reception and parade from the Post Office to the Alameda Square, with accompanying bands, followed by live music in the Alameda Square.
9 pm Concert by the Oxford Music Band in the Plaza España
11 pm Concert of music from the 60s and 70s in the Cuadrilátero
11 pm Live music at the main carnival stage

Sunday 14th
12 noon Live music in various bits of town
4 pm Football Derby in the stadium at the top of Avenida el Puente
6 pm Basketball match at the Miraflores stadium (out of town.)
7pm Batucada (lots and lots of drums) in the main streets
10 pm Live music at the main carnival stage

Monday 15th LOS INDIANOS


The big one! This is why some supermarkets are selling 25 kg sacks of talc. See here for an explanation and here and here for photos of other years. The ferry from Tenerife will arrive absolutely packed with foot passengers who've come to party. Don't miss it unless you have lung problems. The local bus company is laying on lots and lots of extra buses.

10 am The waiting. People mill around the Plaza de España, officially waiting for the boat bringing the Indianos - their relatives back from Venezuela and Cuba. Live Cuban music until 12:30 pm

12 noon - 2 pm Local group Vrandan at the Balconies stage

12:30 pm More live Cuban music with a local carnival character, Tomasa the black lady

1:30 pm Dancing procession of the Indianos and Tomasa from the Plaza de España to the main Carnival stage.

2 pm - 1 am Live Cuban music pretty much everywhere.

5 pm THE PROCESSION from Avenida los Indianos to the Alameda Square

1 am - 6 am Live Cuban music at the main Carnival stage.

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Rooftop Viewpoints

Traditional roof with a space to view the port.

These days, Santa Cruz de la Palma is a bit of a backwater. But three hundred years ago, it was the third biggest port in the Spanish Empire. Almost every ship traveling from Spain to the Americas stopped here. In the 19th century, it was still a major port, and many of the inhabitants waited anxiously for a ship bringing their merchandise, letters from family members who'd emigrated to Cuba or Venezuela, or the loved ones themselves, as passengers or crew.

Consequently many of the older houses have viewpoints on the roof, like a little crow's nest. They're all designed to give a view of the port, although in some cases the view is now blocked by a tall, new building, like these houses in the Calle Real. They're a nice reminder of the past, and I have fun trying to spot them, even though I can't believe that they get much use in the internet age

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La Palma's Museum

The entrance to the island's museum, beside the church of San Francisco.

The Island's Museum is in the old convent of San Francisco. The building itself is lovely. It dates from the early 16th century; work started in 1508, just fifteen years after the Spanish conquest. (Forty years ago, it was the technical school, and my husband studied there. It certainly looks better than the concrete box I studied in.) The church is still a church, and the music school stands beside the museum, so you often get music floating out over the square.

The building has two courtyards, one of which is full of orange trees, planted by the great and the good who came for the official opening of the observatory, in 1985.

The courtyard of orange trees.

The inside reminds me of a cross between an attic and the Discworld's Unseen University. There's a bit of almost everything. It's a surprisingly large museum for such a small island, and I think most of the collection was donated by people who felt they couldn't throw the Granny's old stuff out, but certainly weren't about to give it house room. Don't get me wrong: it's all nicely displayed and labled. It's just that you never know what you're going to find around the next corner. That's exactly what I loved. Besides, I wouldn't want a collection of stuff sharks heads at home either. Much better to have them here, delighting blood-thirsty 8-year-olds. (Kids will be happy to hear that some of them have serious teeth.)

Downstairs, I they have woodworking tools (lots for shipbuilding), lots of sea shells, starfish, turtles, a seal, lots of birds, tools for preparing flax, wool and silk, a loom, drinking troughs for animals, straw baskets, and probably a partridge in a pear tree and a kitchen sink.

Upstairs there's a small selection of paintings (some very old) and musical instruments.

For most of the year the museum is open from Monday-Saturday, 10 am to 8 pm, and Sundays from 10 am to 2 pm. In high summer (July August and September) they open Monday-Saturday from 10 am to 2 pm only.
Stuffed sharks and other fish.

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The Kings are Coming to La Palma!

Gaspar visiting Santa Cruz de la Palma

Although Father Christmas does visit Spanish children, he's a new arrival. Traditionally the presents arrive on the morning of January 6th, when the three kings visit baby Jesus. This is why the sales haven't really started yet - Christmas isn't over here. And on the evening of the 5th, they ride in procession through most of the major towns and villages in Spain. In previous years we've usually gone to see the procession in Santa Cruz. They start at the south end of town and meet up at the Plaza España, where they find they're all following the same star and agree to travel together. When they get to the Alemeda, they find King Herod's court. Of course, he wants to know what they're doing in his country, and then makes them promise to tell him where the child is. They travel up the baranco from the concrete ship, and find Mary, Joseph and Jesus in a cave, and leave their presents. Then finally, an angel tells them not to even think about telling Herod where to find Jesus.

At that point they light the bonfires in the (hopefully dry) river bed and set off the fireworks.

There's a list of processions on La Palma at the end of the post. I'm surprised here's no mention of the one in Santo Domingo de Garafía, which is supposed to be particularly good. Traditionally it starts at 10pm, and there's a long drive back for me, which is why I've never seen it.

The shops will stay open at least until midnight for people who've left buying presents until the last minute. Tuesday is a public holiday, and the sales start on Wednesday - if you've got any money left by then.

Gran Cabalgata de Reyes (The procession of the Three Wise Men)

• Santa Cruz de la Palma: at 19.00. Itinerary: Plaza de la Constitución, Calle O'Daly, Pérez de Brito, Doctor Pérez Camacho and Avenida de las Nieves up to las Cuevas de Carías.
• Villa de Mazo: at 18.30. From Monumento de la Paz up to la Plaza.
• Puntagorda: at 18.00. From Telecentro cultural del Roque
• Tazacorte: at 19.00.
• Los Llanos de Aridane: at 18.00. Itinerary: Avda.Enrique Mederos up to Plaza de España
• Breña Baja:at 17.00 at Los Cancajos. Itinerary: From the "Las Olas" apartments up to the tourist information office
• San Andrés y Sauces: at 19.30 at Plaza de Monserrat

Sorry this post is a bit late. I've got flu and our internet connection wasn't working earlier. I just hope thier majesties know that I've been a good girl, because bad children traditionally get coal.
Baltazar visiting Santa Cruz de la Palma

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New Year on La Palma

New Year fireworks in Santa Cruz de la Palma, 2009

The Spanish celebrate New Year in a big way. A lot of people go out for an expensive meal wearing evening dress - the the sort of thing I associate with Glyndebourne Opera. Most restaurants offer a special menu, and you have to book well in advance.

This year, large family parties were back in fashion, because they're cheaper. I've usually gone to a family party, but this year we went "parted the year" (as they say in Spanish) with friends in Garafía.

There's an old superstition that if you manage to eat one grape for each of the 12 "boings" at midnight, it'll bring you good luck in the coming year. That's why grapes suddenly got very expensive in the last few days, and yes, restaurants provide you with exactly 12 grapes for midnight, plus a glass of champagne. (I didn't bother with grapes, myself. I'm not superstitious, and I'm trying to get into the habit of eating more slowly.)

At midnight, they have fireworks, which, of course, we couldn't see any from the wilds of Garafía. Then the live music starts in the Plaza España, and the dancing goes on until morning. I'm afraid I missed that, because we both have heavy colds and just wanted to sleep.

And may 2010 bring you whatever you most wish for. In my case, an un-bunged nose, for starters.

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Christmas Market in Santa Cruz de la Palma

One of the tall ships in Santa Cruz de La Palma last year

For several years now, Santa Cruz de la Palma has hosted a Christmas market and a meeting of tall ships. This year, there are sadly no ships, but there'll still be a flea market on Christmas morning, from 9 am to 2 pm.

And a very Merry Christmas to all my readers.

Here on La Palma, it's been pouring with rain for days. At this time of year we expect it to rain sometimes, but we've had about three depressions roll over the island with scarcely a pause between them. The Taburiente river is in spate, and the road is closed where it reaches the sea at Puerto Tazacorte. And the road to the Roque de los Muchachos is also closed - this afternoon, the staff came down the Garafia side in convoy.

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Nativity Scenes

Christmas trees are a newish thing here, although probably most houses have one now. The main traditional decoration is nativity scenes. Some just show the stable, but some public ones are so elaborate that they include the whole village, and it's always a Canarian village. Obviously that's historically inaccurate, but no more so than all the English nativity scenes where Mary and Jesus are blond.

This one was on display in Santa Cruz de la Palma last year.As you can see, it came complete with moving figures and running water. In fact the lights at the back are on a timer, and simulate sunset, night, and morning too. I didn't include that on the video, because it took too long and I didn't think the camera would film the low light levels anyway.

Usually a large nativity scene (belen in Spanish) includes at least one person squatting behind the bushes. If there's one here, I missed it.

They've just opened this years belen in Palacio Salazar, on the Calle Real. It's open from 10 am to 1 pm and 5 pm to 8:30 pm until January 6th.

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An Art Exhibition in Sant aCruz de la Palma

Garafian peasant, oil on canvas, by Manuel González Méndez

Santa Cruz de la Palma isn't exactly the centre of the art world, but we do pretty well for such a small town. The Island Museum currently holding an exhibition to celebrate the centenary of a local artist. Manuel González Méndez was born in Santa Cruz de la Palma in 1843, in Calle Virgen la Luz. By the time he died in Barcelona in 1909, he was perhaps the most important Canarian artist of all. I'm no art expert, but I thought the portraits were great.

The museum is on the old convent building beside San Francisco church, which is a lovely 16th century building, and worth a visit in itself, but that's a topic for another post.

The museum and exhibition are open from 10 am to 8 pm Monday to Saturday, and on Sunday mornings from 10 am to 2 pm. The exhibition will be up until January 10th, 2010. And you can't beat the price - it's free.

The Weaver, oil on canvas, by Manuel González Méndez

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Moon Exhibition in Santa Cruz de la Palma

Photo: Nick Smith, taken on August 14th at the Roque de los Muchachos


In honour of the 40th anniversary of Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin walking on the moon, and the International Year of Astronomy, the observatory is hosting an exhibition about the moon. It covers the history of lunar observations from the first time Galileo pointed his telescope at it in 1609 to the present. You don't have to read Spanish to appreciate the gorgeous photos from the telescopes at the Roque de los Muchachos, or the videos and interactive maps of the moon.

The opening party is on Saturday 28th November at noon. The classic rock group, Manifold, will play songs about the moon, and there will be free nibbles.

That night at 8pm there'll be telescopes in the main courtyard of the San Francisco convent so you can see the moon up close and personal. Best of all, the Italians are bringing a replica of Galileo's telescope from 400 years ago.

and for those that do understand Spanish, on Friday 4th December at 8pm, Dr. Romano Corradi of the Grantecan will give a talk on the moon.

And it's all free!

The exhibition is in Palacio Salazar, on the main street (Calle O'Daly) of Santa Cruz de la Palma, open from 10 am to 8pm. Monday, 30th November - Friday, 4th December.

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A quick visit to Santa Cruz

The famous balconies on Santa Cruz sea front

Cruise ships regularly call into Santa Cruz de La Palma, and I thought people might like suggestions on what to see while they're here. Of course it might be useful to people staying elsewhere on the island, too.

The Tourist Information Office is a distinctive glass building, right outside the entrance to the port, and the staff are very good. But it does tend to attract longish queues when a cruise ship's just arrived.

People tend to ask about the shopping. Well, there are some interesting shops ( I like Artesanía Christina), but it's a town of about 12,500, so you're not going to get Oxford Street. On the other hand we've got some lovely historical buildings. If you've got an hour or so, stroll along the sea front. You'll pass the famous balconies, which are about 350 years old, and a small castle. Sir Francis Drake attacked the place in November 1585, but they sent him off with a flea in his ear.

A little father on, turn left at the traffic lights, and you'll find a replica of Christopher Columbus's ship, the Santa Maria. It houses a naval museum, which only costs 1€. Beside it, there's a pretty square, the Plaza Alemeda, which is a very nice place to stop for a coffee.

There are two exits to the square at the opposite end to the ship. The side farthest from the sea leads to the Square and church of St Francis (San Francisco) It's a lovely collection of historical buildings. The convent was founded 500 years ago, although I think most of the buildings date from the 16th century. The cloisters are now the island's museum. In addition tot eh permanent collection, they hold all sorts of exhibitions, some of them very good.

The exit from the Plaza Alemeda, which is closer to the sea front and running parallel to it, is the Calle Real. This means "Royal Street" because the three kings travel along it to meet Baby Jesus every Christmas. Rather confusingly, this name doesn't appear on any of the street signs,. and different bits have different official names - the bit nearest the Alemeda is called Perez de Brito. Whatever you call it, it's full of nice old buildings, many of which used to be the town houses of stinking rich merchants and nobles. Many are now shops.

You'll cross a main road that runs at right angles to the Calle Real, running up the hill. This is Avenida El Puente, and it's the other main shopping street. But if you continue on the Calle Real, (now called Calle O'Daly) You'll reach the Plaza de España almost immediately. Plaza de España means Spanish Square, and it's triangular. The posh-looking building at the top of the steps is the Church of the Saviour, built and rebuilt in bits and bobs from the 16th to the 19th century.

On the other side of the road is the Town Hall (1559-1563), the first one in Spain to have an elected council. Pop inside and look at the murals on the stairway.

If you have time for a side trip, go up past the church and have a wander around the old streets higher up the hill. It's also good aerobic exercise.

A little farther along the Calle Real, you'll reach the main exhibition room which is a great place to get a unique souvenir, if you've got the pennies. The exhibitions last for two weeks each.

Continuing along the Calle Real, you'll pass several more old manor houses, including Palacio Salazar, which dates from the 16th century. Eventually, you'll reach the post office. If you look left, you'll see the Tourist Information Office again.


The Santa Maria

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The Island Council's Exhibition Room

Of course there's more than one exhibition space in La Palma - there are at least four in Santa Cruz alone. But the Island Council runs a very nice one on the main street, just south of the Plaza España. The exhibitions there usually run for two weeks each. At the moment, it's an artist from Puntallana called Rosa Vidal, who makes her own paper.

Rosa's exhibition is open from 10:30 - 1:30 and 5 pm- 8 pm.

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Saturday is a Public Holiday

The 15th of August is a public holiday on La Palma. (Concepción Inmaculada, the Immaculate Conception) Most of the shops will be closed. If you can get to the village of Concepción, above Santa Cruz de la Palma, theyĺl be having their annual fiesta: lots of mobile bars blasting out salsa music, lots of stalls selling cheap toys, a religious procession, and probably a live band.

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Where to find the Star Parties

Here's a Google map with the locations of the two star parties, at the top and bottom.

View La Palma Island in a larger map
Click on one of the blue map pins for details.

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Stargazing in aid of Fire Victims

Wednesday night (August 12th) should be the best night of the year to see shooting stars. Shooting stars happen when the Earth passes through a cloud of dust left behind by a comet's tail. To celebrate, the amateur astronomers on La Palma and Astrotour are holding two star parties.

You'll be able to observe the sun through a telescope (safely!) in Santa Cruz de la Palma in the Plaza España from 11 am to 1 pm.

And from 8 pm - 11pm there'll be nocturnal telescopes in the basketball court at La Polvacera in Breña Baja. And the residents' association will provide drinks.

In both cases, the Red Cross will be collecting for the people who lost their homes in the forest fire.

So you get astronomy and warm fuzzy feelings in one go.

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Fiestas in Las Nieves and El Paso

Inside Las Nieves Church

Today is the fiesta of the patron saint of La Palma, the Virgin of Las Nieves. It's also a public holiday for the whole island.

Las Nieves is about 2 km inland from Santa Cruz de la Palma. When I went this morning, it was impossible to park within a mile of the fiesta. Sorry, I just turned around and went home. I expect it's much like other years - lots of stalls selling food and drink and souvenirs, and a religious procession at some point in the day.

Meanwhile, El Paso has it's once-every-three-years fiesta going on for most of the month. They have things going on all month, but the main event is the romería on Sunday 16th. This is a cross between a religious procession and a party, where they take the statue of the Virgin on the Pine from the hermitage of the same name, to the church in the town. Romerías are usually great fun, with people taking along instruments to sing folk songs on the way, and wagons handing out free food and drink - usually friend pork and wine.

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Las Nieves

I can't believe that I haven't written about Las Nieves church before.

Las Nieves is a pretty hamlet, in the municipality of Santa Cruz, but about 2 km outside it as the crow flies. If you're fairly fit, there's a pretty (but rough and steep) footpath between the two.





More importantly, Las Nieves has the most gorgeous church on the island. It's also the oldest one, dating from at least 1423 (they had missionaries here before the conquest in 1493). I'm sure the current building must be newer, if only because of its size. It's a very popular place to get married.



Our Lady of the Snows (the Virgin Mary) is the patron saint of the island, and statue of the her is painted terracotta, from the 15th century. The throne she stands on is marble covered with silver. (It's not too clear in the photo, but it's the thing behind the altar with all the flowers on it.)

Every five years the island has a massive fiesta where the statue of the Virgin comes down to Santa Cruz for five weeks. First they bring down the throne, which separates into 12 pieces (which are still darned heavy). That isn't so much a religious procession as a party, five miles long. Some people are staggering by the time they reach Santa Cruz. Then, a week later, they bring down the statue of the Virgin, which is a much more solemn ocassion.



The Calvary statues are from the middle of the 16th century, and really beautiful.


There are also four paintings in the church, given as thanks for miraculous rescues from storms at sea.



>Visiting hours: Mondays to Sundays from 8 am to 8 pm.

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World Book Day

April 23rd is world book day. On La Palma, the celebrations go on all week. Both Santa Cruz and Los Llanos have book stalls out in the street. Last year, they had a 10% discount, although most of the books were in Spanish. Since I'm a book-a-holic, I loved it.

This year, they're having events to encourage people to come. Amoung other things, Callou (from the TV series) will be in Santa Cruz signing books all week, as are various adult authors. And the cowboy from Oregon, Leaping Louie will be doing his lasso/whip/comedy routine in Los Llanos (Monday 6pm, Plaza de España) and Santa Cruz (Tuesday, 6:30 pm, Plaza de España). And a group from El Hierro will be performing "a dance spectacular inthe street" called "The Garoé Tree". (The Sacred Garoé is a tree in El Heirro).

A fair few books are going to be "presented" which usually means the author reading part of the book, followed by nibbles and a chance to buy a signed copy. Los Sauces will stage a play, "El", in the Casa de Cultura on Tuesday at 8:30 pm, and Jackie Rios and Sis del Castillo wilol give a concert in Los Llanos on Wednesday at 6:30 int the Plaze de España.

I'm looking forward to this, especially if they have discounts again.

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The Santa Maria

Replica of Columbus's Santa Maria in Santa Cruz de la Palma

Back when I worked for the observatory, we ocassionally gave visiting astronomers a lift up to the mountaintop. I always enjoyed detouring past the replica of Christopher Columbus's ship, the Santa Maria, partly to see the visitor's reaction.

Astronomer: "What on earth is that!?"
Me: It's a concrete ship in the middle of the road. What's it look like?"
Astronomer: "Concrete!?"

One astronomer even begged us to stop, so that he could go up and touch it, because the "wood" paint was so convincing that he couldn't believe it was concrete. It's beautifully done. It even has old fashioned "nails" with "shadows".


"Nails" in the replica of Columbus's Santa Maria

The ship houses a small naval museum. Now I'm no expert on ships because I get sea-sick standing in a puddle, but I enjoyed it. Downstairs they have some rather nice model ships, sextants, and two old figureheads.


Model ship in the naval museum


Figurehead in the naval museum

(They also have several empty display cases, because they haven't quite finished the refurbishment yet). Upstairs there's a display of old charts.

When appoaching the Straits of Gibraltar, be aware that fishermen have tunny nets extending up to seven miles from the coast.

If you want to take photos of them, you'll need a polarizing filter to remove the reflections.

And then you can go out onto the deck and up to the aftcastle and forecastle. At that point, if I were eight years old, I'd instantly be desperate to play pirates. They even have two small canons. That is, they look small until you imagine canonballs that size whizzing straight at you.


Canons on the main deck

The stairs are steep, and might be a problem for elderly knees. And they have genunine C15th safety barriers, which is to say no barriers at all, so you'll need to hang onto any impetuous little people. It's no problem for sensible adults in the replica, although it must have been downright dangerous in a storm on the original.

The bit that surprises me is that this full-scale model is so small. Columbus's crew of thirty-nine men spent thirty-four days in a boat this size, from La Gomera to the Bahamas. I suppose an estate agent would have called it cosy.

To be honest, it's not the world's greatest museum, and I was only in there for twenty minues, but then it costs one measely euro.

The Santa Maria is on the Plaza Alemeda at the nborth end of Santa Cruz de la Palma. It opens from 10 am to 2 pm, Monday - Friday. Price €1.00. There are public toilets opposite.


The deck of the Santa Maria, in Santa Cruz de la Palma

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Weekend Carnival Programme

Santa Cruz de La Palma
Saturday, 28th February

12:00 noon. Cuban music in the plaza de la Alameda.

10 pm Costume night, with music from Salsaludando and Arena Caliente at the carnival stage

Sunday, 1st March

6 pm children´s party with music from Vigord Jazz, and a prize for the best child´s costume of 2009, at the carnival stage.

Los Llanos
Saturday, 28th February

6 pm Carnival Procession in Puerto Naos.
Organized by the Neighbourhood Association Jaraco from Puerto Naos.
Avda. de Puerto Naos

10:00 p.m Public dance at the carnival stage, with music from Ricaband and Bolero

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Los Indianos

One minutes our of a whole night's partying.

As usual, the little kids are the cutest.


Sometimes the talc can get a bit much. I wonder why I never thought of this solution?

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Canival programme during the week

Santa Cruz de La Palma
Monday, 23rd February LOS INDIANOS - the main event for most people. At one time many Palmerans left the island in search of a better life in the Caribean. Los Indianos celebrates
those who came home again stinking rich. Basically, almost everyone wears white, usually "Gone with the Wind" style dresses for the women, and suits and Panama hats for the men. Some people carry cardboard suitcases, and everybody throws truly amazing quantities of talc at each other. If you dress up and join the parade, the town hall will provide talc. I believe last year they handed out five tones of the stuff and of course most people bought more. The talc is considerably cheaper at the supermarket then at the carnival stalls, and you probably want at least 500g per person. Lots of photos from two years ago here, and a description of last year's event here.

Give it a miss if you have bad asthma, or you're shaky on your feet - the ground gets very slippy. Otherwise make sure you see at least a bit of it. People come from South America for this!

10 am. Waiting. Dignitares wait outside the town hallto greet old friends, neighbours and family who wen to (south) American in search of fortune. Today they come to stir upthe town with Cuban rhythms.

11:00-12:30 am. Cuban music from Los Viejos in la plaza de la Alameda.

11:30 am - 1 00 pm. Tradicional Cuban Music from Pimienta and Ají in the plaza de España. During the performance, the dignitaries will recieve "la Negra Tomasa", a traditional character who represents the returning Palmerans.

And then there's something called "La Batatita, Las Chancleteras y el Manisero," performed by the students of the Municipal Theatre School.

12:30-2:00 pm. Cuban Music from Son Bohemio in la plaza de la Alameda.

13:00-14:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Mayeya in la plaza de España.

14:30 pm. I Festival Pimienta y Ají in la plaza de Santo Domingo with traditional Cuban music from various groups.

14:30-16:00 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Orillas del Son in la plaza de España.

16:00-17:00 pm. Yet more traditional Cuban music from Parranda del Gofio in the Plaza de España.

16:30 pm. Official reception for Los Indianos and the talc battle starts.

17:00 pm. The main procession of Los Indianos from Avenida de Los Indianos (the main road leading south out of town) to the plaza de la Alameda.

17:00-18:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Son Bohemio in the plaza de la Alameda.

17:30-19:00 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the groups ONG El Cardero Punto Com y Punto on the carnival stage.

18:30-20:00 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Cuarto Son in the plaza de la Alameda.

19:00-20:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Mayeya on the carnival stage.

20:00-21:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Changó in the plaza de la Alameda.

21:30-23:00 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Orillas del Son in the plaza de la Alameda.

23:00-00:30 pm. Tradicional Cuban from the group Changó in the plaza de la Alameda.

24:00 pm. Public dance with music performed by Salsaludando, Arena Caliente, Geniales and Rica Band on the carnival stage.

00:30-02:00 am. Tradicional Cuban from the group Cuarto Son in the plaza de la Alameda.

Martes, 24 de febrero

17:00 pm. Dance in fancy dress at the Day Centre for Pensioners

19:00 pm. Carnival Festival, with a performances by the La Longuera, Dance School, Ventacayce Cultural Centre, La Palma Dance School, La Encarnación childen's group, Chango Batuka Workshop Calcinas Dance Group and Devorah Velásquez León, at the carnival stage.

Viernes, 27 de febrero

21:00 pm. THE SARDINE'S FUNERAL This is the other crazy night, although the funeral in Santa Cruz seems to be less popular each year, whereas the one in Los Sauces gets more popular (that one's on March 9th this year). Yes, it's a funeral procession for a huge papiere mache sardine, complete with fake priests and moUrners howling with fake grief. It's like being inside a Monty Python sketch. (There's a longer description with photos here)

The funeral procession for Lady Sardine leaves the Plaza de la Alameda at 9p,and heads for the carnival stage. On arrival, the cremation and fireworks (NB the locals stand well back for a good reason!) After that there will be a public dance with music from Salsaludando and Los Geniales at the carnival stage.

Los Llanos de Aridane

MONDAY, February 23
11 a.m. CHILDREN'S WORKSHOP
Plaza de España

4.30 p.m. Parade and children's mask contest
Carnival Scene

10 p.m. Public Dance
with the musical group Libertad and Bolero at the Carnival Stage

TUESDAY, February 24
5 p.m. CARNIVAL COSO
with a carnival groups parades: murgas, comparsas, batucadas, carrozas, etc.
From “La Vera de Argual” to Plaza de España.

WEDNESDAY, Feburary 25
8 p.m. Murgas in La Plaza de España

THURSDAY, February 26
8 p.m. Murgas in La Plaza de España

FRIDAY, February 27
9:30 p.m. The Sardine's Funeral (See the description for Sana Cruz, or a longer description with photos here)

The Burial starts at 1:00 p.m. in El Camino Los Lomos – Los Pedregales, from where the funeral procession leaves at 7:00 p.m. towards La Calle Ramón Pol.
Once the funeral procession arrives, the Sardine will e cremated.

10:00 p.m. VERBENA
With Ricaband and Grupo Libertad orchestras at the Carnival Stage

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Santa Cruz Carnival Programme for the weekend

Spain celebrates Carnival in the week before the season of Lent. I always say people are making sure they have something really juicy to repent, but these days most people just regard it as a darn good excuse for a party.

The funfair's already here, and the main programme starts on Friday.

Friday, 20th February

6 pm. Opening Parade
Children from the schools and nurseries will parade from the Plaza de la Alameda (the concrete ship) to the Carnival stage (the sea-front car park.) Each class has a different costume, and a lot of them will be seriously cute. The parade includes several bands and drumming groups (batucadas).

8 pm. Music (probably salsa) and dancing at the main carnival stage.

Saturday 21st February

11 am to 1pm Cuban Music
In the Plaza de la Alameda.

6 pm The Ambassador's Parade

Everyone welcome. Come dressed as the ambassadors for whichever country you fancy. (See photos of the 2006 parade here) or just watch. The parade will run from near the port to the concrete ship, accompanied by bands. On arrival at the Plaza Alameda, there will be Cuban music.

9 pm - 11pm Music from the 60s and 70s
In the Plaza de la Alameda.

9pm Concert by la Banda de Oxford.
In the Plaza España. (That's the triangular "square" near the main road up the hill.)

11pm Verbena Popular (music and dancing)
Music by the live bands Arena Caliente and Salsaludando at the main carnival stage.

Sunday 22nd February

12 noon. Performances by the group Renacer in various places along the Calle Real.

6 pm. Drumming festival (Batucada), with drumming bands from all over the island performing in the main streets.

8:30 pm. Festival «Young Solists» at the carnival stage.

10 pm Public dance with music by the group Geniales at the carnival stage.

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These days, Santa Cruz de la Palma is a bit of a backwater. But three hundred years ago, it was the third biggest port in the Spanish Empire. In the 19th century, it was still a major port, and many of the inhabitants waited anxiously for a ship bringing their merchandise, letters from family members who'd emigrated to Cuba or Venezuela, or the loved ones themselves, as passengers or crew.

Consequently many of the houses have viewpoints on the roof, like a little crow's nest. They're all designed to give a view of the port, although in some cases the view is now blocked by a tall, new building, like these houses in the Calle Real. They're a nice reminder of the past, and I have fun trying to spot them, even though I can't believe that they get much use in the internet age

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The Kings are Coming!

Although Father Christmas does visit Spanish children, he's a new arrival. Traditionally the presents arrive on the morning of January 6th, when the three kings visit baby Jesus. This is why the sales haven't really started yet - Christmas isn't over here. And on the evening of the 5th, they ride in procession through most of the major towns and villages in Spain. In previous years we've usually gone to see the procession in Santa Cruz. They start at the south end of town and meet up at the Plaza España, where they find they're all following the same star and agree to travel together. When they get to the Alemeda, they find King Herod's court. Of course, he wants to know what they're doing in his country, and then makes them promise to tell him where the child is. They travel up the baranco from the concrete ship, and find Mary, Joseph and Jesus in a cave, and leave their presents. Then finally, an angel tells them not to even think about telling Herod where to find Jesus.

At that point they light the bonfires in the (hopefully dry) river bed and set off the fireworks.

There are also processions in Los Sauces and Santo Domingo de Garafía. The latter is supposed to be particularly good, but it doesn't start until 10pm, so I'm going to give it a miss.

The shops will stay open at least until midnight for people who've left buying presents until the last minute. Tuesday is a public holiday, and the sales start on Wednesday - if you've got any money left by then.

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Happy New Year

The Spanish celebrate New Year in a big way. A lot of people wear evening dress - the the sort of thing I associate with Glyndebourne Opera. I've usually gone to a big family party, but this year we went to see Santa Cruz.

At midnight, they have fireworks. (To be honest, this year it wasn't as good as usual. I think the town hall are worried about money just like the rest of us) Then the live music starts in the Plaza España, and the dancing goes on until morning. I'm afraid I missed that, because we both have heavy colds and just wanted to sleep.

And may 2009 bring you whatever you most wish for. In my case, an un-runny nose, for starters.

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The Christmas Road Train

If you were shopping in Santa Cruz last week, you might have seen a road train full of infants, grinning and waving, and shouting out "¡Feliz Navidad!"

The road train belongs to the local bus company. It's available for hire all year, but it seems to be pretty solidly booked in the last week of school term.

The school where I used to work had a regular routine. We put Father Christmas hats on the kids (a fun way to make them easy to spot in a crowd) and loaded them onto the train. First a short drive into town, waving and yelling "Merry Christmas" at everyone in sight. Then we got off and went down the main street into the square, where we had a group photo taken. We carried along the main street towards the post office, with the kids handing out hand-coloured cards along the way. It was great to see random shoppers and tourists forget their tired feet and beam as a four-year-old pressed a wrinkled bit of paper on them.

Father Christmas / Santa Claus is a very new introduction to Spain. These days he does turn up for most kids and leaves a few sweets, but the main presents arrive with the Three Kings on January 6th. So when we got to the post-office, the kids posted their letters to the kings, (the first time some of them had posted a letter) and we got back on the road train for a drive down to the next village along the coast, which is the tourist beach.

Well it was great. Bemused tourists waved, and workmen digging a ditch cheered, and passing cars (and one bulldozer!) honked their horns in salute. I felt like the queen, although I knew most of it was for the kids.

But I couldn't help feeling sorry for the occasional adults who just glared. All religion apart, if you can't raise the tiniest twitch of a smile or wave for sixty-odd kids grinning at you, then I think you're sad in every sense of the word.

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Where's the village gone?

Tourists sometimes go nuts trying to find the village of Breña Baja, or Fuencaliente.

There's a really simple reason why they can't find them. They don't exist. Breña Baja and Fuencaliente are municipalities, and their town halls are in the villages of San Jose and Los Canarios, respectively. It like driving all over the south east of England, looking for the town of Sussex.

The map shows the 14 municipalities (in blue) , with their administrative seats (in pink). Where
there's no name in pink, the municipalities are named after their chief villages, which makes things simpler. Just to keep things interesting, one, San Andrés y Sauces, is named after the two biggest villages. The town hall is in Los Sauces, which is much bigger and on the main road.

That's easy to find.

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Tuning Cars

Santa Cruz hosts a tuning car show this evening and tomorrow afternoon. Tonight (Friday) starting at 5pm, is kids' day, with bouncy castles, and a circuit for mini-motors and quads. Later on there will be an open-air dance (verbena) with live music from the group Mayeya.

Tomorrow (Saturday), from midday until eleven pm, is the main show for adults. There will be prizes awarded in twenty-four categories (oldest, cleanest, best interior lighting, etc.)

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Exhibition: The Canary Island's Mountains

From 20th June to 19th July, 2008
Casa Principal de Salazar, O'Daly 22, Santa Cruz de la Palma
Open Mon-Fri, 10 am to 1 pm and 5 pm to 8 pm
Saturdays from 10 am to 2 pm.

You know, I think "Mountains" is a mistake in translation, because the exhibition is about forests (and "monte" can mean either forest or mountain side.)

I don't care. It's a fun exhibition. My son enjoyed the hands-on bits, like turning a pump handle to see the water being pumped up. (Did you know an oak tree can pump anything up to 600 litres of water from roots to leaves on a summer day?) I enjoyed the photographs of microscopic pollen. And we were both astonished to find out how long worms live (16 years), and how much they eat.

So I recommend it. If I'd paid 5€ I'd have felt I got my money's worth, but actually, it's free.

Calle O'Daly is the cobbled main street running from near the port to the concrete ship. Casa Principal de Salazar is a rather lovely old building on your left (as you go from the port to the ship) with barley-sugar columns flanking the door.

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Flags Galore

You see a lot of flags on La Palma. Most English visitors will recognise the flags of Spain and the European Union.

But the Canary Islands are an autonomous region within Spain, and they have their own flag too. You see it a lot, especially around May 30th, which is Canary Day.



And then each island has its own flag. Here's the flag of La Palma:



And as if that weren't enough, La Palma has 14 municipalities, of which twelve have their own flag.

Santa Cruz	Breña Baja	Los Llanos
El Paso	Barlovento	Breña Alta
Garafía	Mazo	Tijarafe
Puntagorda	Puntallana	Tazacorte

(The other two municipalities are San Andres y Sauces and Fuencaliente)

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