Fiestas in Early September

There are two nice fiestas coming up at the beginning of September.

In El Paso, the statue of the Virgin of the Pine was carried in procession from the hermitage up in the mountain down to the village. On September 6th, there will be another procession to carry it back.


The Devil's dance, Tijarafe, 2007.

In Tijarafe in the early hours of September 8th, the devil will join the dance. This is a man in a suit covered with lit fireworks, and no, I don't think it's entirely safe. On the other hand, I've never heard of any bad accidents, and it's certainly memorable and great fun. The party starts the night before, of course, with the usual music, dancing, and mobile bars.

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El Time Viewpoint

La Palma has lots of spectacular viewpoints, (mirador in Spanish). Most people's favourite is the at El Time, which is perched on the northern edge of the Angustias ravine.

It's easy to find. Coming from Los Llanos, you drive down and down and down, round some pretty steep bends. After you cross the river, almost at sea-level, you drive up and up and up and up and up, until you're seventeen hundred feet up (535 m). There's a small car park on each side of the road.

You get a spectacular view, all the way from El Paso to the coast. Even better, there's a bar right on the edge. Weather permitting, you can admire the view while you sip your coffee and eat cake (rather good cake, too). There's a craft shop beside the bar. And if you're not thirsty, you can admire the view without going into either.

It's particularly spectacular at sunset.

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The Best Baroque Altarpieces in the Canary Islands

This is the main altarpiece in The church of Our Lady of Candelaria (Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Candelaria) in Tijarafe. According to the books, it's the best baroque altarpiece in the Canary Islands. It's certainly gorgeous, and huge.

It was made by Antonio de Orbarán, and he worked on it from 1626 to 1628. It cleverly combines niches with statues and painted panels.

The church itself was built around 1530, but various enlargements and renovations went on from 1571 until the start of the 18th century.

Mass is held on Fridays, Sundays and public holidays at 17.30 (in summer, at 18.30) but the church seems to be open most of the time. Take the main road around the north of the island, detour into the centre of Tijarafe (just above the main road) and you'll find the church easily.

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The Virgin of Fatima in La Punta

Mass for the Virgin of Fatima, La Punta

Last night I went to the fiesta for The Virgin of Fatima in La Punta, in the municipality of Tijarafe. Things didn't go according to plan (see my personal blog, but I had a good time.


Procession

La Punta is just a hamlet. Like most small villages, the main annual fiesta is the saint's day of the village's patron saint. Practically all such fiestas include a special mass and a procession with the statue of the saint, and so did this one.


Living Picture

Most fiestas include something else, which varies from village to village. Tijarafe town all told me that there wasn't anything else at La Punta, but they had a living picture, which someone gave a short speech in honour of the Virgin.


Fireworks

And then we had fireworks. Rather good ones in my opinion, considering the size of the place.


The Dance Floor

And the dance was just getting started as I left. I had to get up this morning. Since they have today off work they probably partied until 2 am at least.

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Where's the village gone?

Tourists sometimes go nuts trying to find the village of Breña Baja, or Fuencaliente.

There's a really simple reason why they can't find them. They don't exist. Breña Baja and Fuencaliente are municipalities, and their town halls are in the villages of San Jose and Los Canarios, respectively. It like driving all over the south east of England, looking for the town of Sussex.

The map shows the 14 municipalities (in blue) , with their administrative seats (in pink). Where
there's no name in pink, the municipalities are named after their chief villages, which makes things simpler. Just to keep things interesting, one, San Andrés y Sauces, is named after the two biggest villages. The town hall is in Los Sauces, which is much bigger and on the main road.

That's easy to find.

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The Devil's Dance

As usual, the devil paid a visit to Tijarafe's annual fiesta.

It starts off like most fiestas. The village centre is off the main road, and on the way in, I passed mobile bars, blasting out music at full volume. The only surprise was that the music was drum and bass. When I reached the main square, higher up, I found it decorated with white bunting and packed with people dancing to the salsa band. I arrived at 2 am, and the crowd looked like it was just warming up.

Something I always notice at Palmeran fiestas - a lot of the younger people are pretty drunk, but it's very rare to see a fight. In fact I don't think I saw as much as a rude gesture in the hour and a half I was there.

Finally, at about 3:30 am, the giants and big heads appeared. These are standard carnival characters, and they wouldn't excite adults normally, but they're a sign that the devil will appear any minute.





The band launches into the traditional song, which goes something like, "Tra-la-la-la, the devil's coming soon." And then, sure enough, he appears.

It's a man wearing a metal suit covered with lit fireworks, and he heads straight for the middle of the crowd. Most of the jet is directed upwards, and I don't think you'd get serious burns if you got too close, but most people try to get away (I wouldn't wear your best clothes to this fiesta. I really wouldn't). Of course some people farther away try to get closer, so the result is a lot of pushing and shoving. I was glad to be on the stone wall at the side of the square.

Meanwhile the band is singing, "Tra-la-la-la, the devil's here now," and "Tra-la-la-la, the party's not over yet."

After about five to ten minutes of this chaos, the devil runs out of fireworks and goes away again. And then the crowd thins out pretty rapidly as people go home.

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The Devil's coming tonight!

It's fiesta time in Tijarafe, and the devil should join the fun in the early hours of the morning. The Town Hall website says he'll arrive at 4 am. I've only been once in all the years I've lived here, and then the devil was two hours late. But then, punctuality is a virtue, so you can't really expect the devil to have, can you?

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Flags Galore

You see a lot of flags on La Palma. Most English visitors will recognise the flags of Spain and the European Union.

But the Canary Islands are an autonomous region within Spain, and they have their own flag too. You see it a lot, especially around May 30th, which is Canary Day.



And then each island has its own flag. Here's the flag of La Palma:



And as if that weren't enough, La Palma has 14 municipalities, of which twelve have their own flag.

Santa Cruz	Breña Baja	Los Llanos
El Paso	Barlovento	Breña Alta
Garafía	Mazo	Tijarafe
Puntagorda	Puntallana	Tazacorte

(The other two municipalities are San Andres y Sauces and Fuencaliente)

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El Time Viewpoint

The viewpoint (or mirador) at El Time is perched on the northern edge of the Angustias ravine. Coming from Los Llanos, you drive down and down and down, round some pretty steep bends. After you cross the river, almost at sea-level, you drive up and up and up and up and up, until you're seventeen hundred feet up (535 m). There's a small car park on each side of the road.

The view is spectacular, all the way from El Paso to the coast. Even better, there's a bar right on the edge. Weather permitting, you can admire the view while you sip your coffee and eat cake (rather good cake, too). There's a craft shop beside the bar. And you can admire the view without going into either, if you're not thirsty.

A word of warning, though: the toilets are down steps. This isn't a problem for most people, but four years ago I had a broken shoulder and broken ankle at the same time, and I needed a lot of help to get down there. It's times like that when you really appreciate your friends!

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