Belmaco Cave, the Royal Palace in Mazo

  Before the Spanish invasion, Belmaco Cave was the home of the kings of Mazo. The first rock carvings were found in the 18th century, which was the start of archaeology in the Canary Islands. Today, it’s open to the public. The entrance is on the other side of the road. A little farther inside, there’s a small, two-story building housing various artefacts, like shell spoons and bone punches, and…

October 26, 2013

White sands beach, Salemera, Mazo

La Palma has lots of little beaches tucked away here and there, like Salemera. You take the main road from the airport to Fuencaliente, and just south of Mazo, follow the marked turning off. After four twisty kilometres, you wind up at the little village. It’s easy to park. The beach itself is tiny, but very sheltered. You don’t have to worry that a big wave will come along and…

September 18, 2013

La Fiesta del Borrachito

I’ve managed to miss this fiesta every year for 21 years, but I’m told it’s rather good. It’s one of those fiestas where the devil appears and joins in. Since the “devil” has a costume involving lit fireworks, it’s not advisable to wear your best clothes as they might get pinhole burns. It all happens at Lodero on the night of August 26th.

August 25, 2012

The fire’s controlled

The forest fire in Mazo is under control, after burning 1,700 hectars. And this seems like a good moment to mention that Canary Pines are amazing survivors. They can burn for hours, and then only a few days after the autumn rains begin, the new shoots sprout straight out of the bark.  It’s beautiful to see.

August 8, 2012


On Sunday, Alan Gandy successfully completed his Seven-Islands Walk. (If you’re impressed, you can donate here.) Tuesday May 1st is a public holiday. Most shops will be closed. If you’re self catering, it might be an idea to stock up a bit today. Thursday May 3rd is a local holiday in Santa Cruz de La Palma, Breña Alta, Breña Baja and Mazo. It’s Fiesta de la Cruz, and the roadside…

April 30, 2012

Fresh fish

Fish on La Palma is usually delicious because its very fresh. Well it should be, given the amount of ocean surrounding the island. I once went with friends to a shack on the beach at Punta Larga (since closed) where we had to wait, because the cook was having her own lunch. As we sipped our beer, a man came up out of the sea with two fish on a…

April 10, 2012