Father’s Day on La Palma

Poster for the Parrandas Night, San Jose, Brena Baja

Poster for the Parrandas


Spain celebrates Father’s Day on March 19th, which is St. Jospeh’s Day (St. Joseph being Jesus’s earthly father.) So fathers will get gifts and charming, wobbly cards made at school.

Since the Spanish name for St. Joseph is San José, the village of San José will be celebrating too (although the main fiesta is for St. Anne, in July). Although the 19th is Monday, most of the events happen over the weekend.

On Friday 16th, an exhibition of crafts opens in the parish hall (near the new church). It will be open from 5-8 pm until Monday.
At 7:30 pm there’s a film “Hangover in Las Vegas” (in Spanish) in the square in front of the Town Hall. And at 9:30 pm there’s a disco.

On Satuday 17th the local walking club will be hiking up near Acropark, cyclists will be racing up the main street at 10 am, bouncy castles will be bounced on and kids will be painting pictures from 4 pm. At 5pm the petanca tournament starts (it’s a kind of bowls) and at 6 pm there’s a wheelbarrow race. then at 8:30 pm there’s the “Noche de Parrandas“.

So what’s a Parranda?
It’s a sort of informal music group – something between a performance and a jam session. So if you can sing or play well-known Spanish songs, you might be able to join in.

On Sunday 18th there will be more bouncy castles from 4:30 pm.

And on Monday 19th – father’s day itself – there’s a special mass sung by the local choir, followed by a procession.

Photos of El Llanito’s Sardine’s funeral, 2012

The sardine on her bier, El Llanito, Breña Alta La Palma island

The sardine on her bier at El Llanito

Here are some photos of the sardine’s funeral at El Llanito. As you can see, the sardine itself is much smaller than the one in Los Sauces, but I love those bee-stung lips!

Some of the widows carrying the bier, El Llanito, Breña Alta, La Palma island

Some of the widows carrying the bier

Unlike most places, the bier was carried by the sardine’s widows. Like most places, the widows were very tall and muscular.

There’s a long tradition of political protest at carnival. This placard is in support of the Spanish judge Baltasar Garzón, who was expelled from the judiciary recently, officially for illegal wire-tapping, although it’s widely believed that it had more to do with his investigations of the hundred thousand-or-so people who disappeared under Franco’s rule.

A placard in support of

Political protest at the funeral

In general, the costumes were cheaper and more imaginative than the ones at the bigger fiestas. I particularly liked this “old lady”, who kept insisting on more rum in her drink.

Reveler dressed as an old lay, asking for more and more rum in her drink

Asking for more and more rum in her drink

And of course, the funeral ended with a cremation and fireworks. After that there was a band playing 60s music, but I had to work in the morning, so I went home

Cremating the sardine at El Llanito, Breña Alta, La Palma island

Cremating the sardine at El Llanito, Breña Alta.

 

The Sardine’s Funeral in Santa Cruz de La Palma

Santa Cruz de La Palma’s funeral for the sardine is a comparatively quiet affair (note “comparatively” – I think more people went to the costume dance on Saturday). It was still fun.

The procession started with two of the sardine’s widows (posh-looking transvestites) followed by the Batuka (serious percussion) and jugglers, a fire eaters and a man on stilts. Next came the sardine itself, hand-carried by about ten men in costume, which I liked much better than having it on the back of a lorry. Behind that came most of the mourners.

Fire-breather and stilt-walker, the sardine's funeral, Santa Cruz de La Palma, 2012

Fire-breather and stilt-walker at the sardine's funeral.

When the procession reached the sea-front, the organisers pushed the crowd back, set light to the sardine, and lit the fireworks. Lots of fireworks!

Fireworks as the sardine is cremated, Santa Cruz de La Palma

Fireworks as the sardine is cremated in the sea front at Santa Cruz de La Palma

Blessing animals in Fuencaliente

Fiesta of St Anthony the Abbot, Fuencaliente, La Palma, Canary Islands
Tuesday 17th is the fiesta of San Antonio Abad (St. Anthony the Abbot) in Fuencaliente, and at midday the priest holds a special, traditional service to bless the animals in the church square. I went a couple of years ago, out of curiosity.

I didn’t know whether to expect pets or farm animals, but there was a charnming selection of both. At twelve promptly, the priest came out, gave a short sermon on looking after your animals, said a prayer, and then sprinkled the animals with holy water.

When the cat got wet, he said something you don’t expect to hear in church, but everyone else seemed happy.

Members of the congregation

Kid and donkey at the fiesta of St Anthony the Abbot, Fuencaliente, La Palma, Canary Islands Terrapins at the fiesta of St Anthony the Abbot, Fuencaliente, La Palma, Canary Islands
Ferret at the fiesta of St Anthony the Abbot, Fuencaliente, La Palma, Canary Islands Cat at the fiesta of St Anthony the Abbot, Fuencaliente, La Palma, Canary Islands
Pet Duck at the fiesta of St Anthony the Abbot, Fuencaliente, La Palma, Canary Islands Little girl at the fiesta of St Anthony the Abbot, Fuencaliente, La Palma, Canary Islands

La Palma celebrates St Michael’s day

Whirling Fufo horses dance in Tazacorte, La Palma, Canary Islands

Whirling Fufo horses dance in Tazacorte for the fiesta of St Michael

Tazacorte celebrates its main annual fiesta this month, since its patron saint is St Michael the Archangel, who is also the patron saint of La Palma. There’s something happening most days, but the famous bit is the dance of the Fufo horses on Wednesday 28th at 9:30 pm.

While you’re there, you might want to visit the exhibition in a restored mansion called Casa Massieu, which is open from Mondays to Fridays, 10.00-13.30. Unfortunately the web site doesn’t say what the exhibition’s about.

And if you missed the devil dancing in Tijarafe, he’ll turn up at the smaller fiesta in the hamlet of San Miguelin Breña Alta.

The devil, spouting lit fireworks at San Miguel, Brena Alta, La Palma

The devil, spouting fire at San Miguel, Brena Alta

The Devil in Tijarafe

The devil's fiesta at Tijarafe, La Palma island

The devil's fiesta at Tijarafe

La Palma has several fiestas where the devil appears. He’ll visit Tijarafe in the early hours of September 8th for the annual fiesta del diabolo. This is the night of Wednesday to Thursday

It starts off like most fiestas. The village centre is off the main road, and on the way in, you pass the usual mobile bars, blasting out music at full volume. In the main square, higher up, people dance to the salsa band.

Something I always notice at Palmeran fiestas – a lot of the younger people are pretty drunk, but it’s very rare to see a fight. In fact I don’t think I saw as much as a rude gesture last time I went.

Finally, at about 3:30 am, the giants and big heads appeared. These are standard carnival characters, and they wouldn’t excite adults normally, but they’re a sign that the devil will appear any minute.

The band launches into the traditional song, which goes something like, “Tra-la-la-la, the devil’s coming soon.” And then, sure enough, he appears.

The Devil’s dance, Tijarafe, 2007.

It’s a man wearing a metal suit covered with lit fireworks, and he heads straight for the middle of the crowd. Most of the jet is directed upwards, and I don’t think you’d get serious burns if you got too close, but most people try to get away. (I wouldn’t wear your best clothes to this fiesta. I really wouldn’t.) Of course some people farther away try to get closer, so the result is a lot of pushing and shoving. (Don’t take small children either!)

Meanwhile the band is singing, “Tra-la-la-la, the devil’s here now,” and “Tra-la-la-la, the party’s not over yet.”

After about five to ten minutes of this chaos, the devil runs out of fireworks and goes away. The Virgin Mary’s defeated him again! And then the crowd thins out pretty rapidly as people go home. Boring normality is restored for another year.

The devil's fiesta at Tijarafe, La Palma island

The devil's fiesta at Tijarafe

Events on La Palma this weekend

Silk exhibition at La Palma's craft fair, 2010

Silk exhibition at last year's craft fair


Friday night is the best meteor shower of the year, the Perseids. Of course it should be visible all over the planet, but La Palma’s astronomical viewpoints will probably be a particularly good place to see shooting stars. Unfotunately the full moon will spoil the show quite a bit. Astrotour will be in La Polvacera bsketball court from 9 pm – 11:30 pm with telescopes.

This year, the island’s annual craft fair will be in San Pedro, Breña Alta, from yesterday until Tuesday. There are 179 different exhibitors, showing 40 different crafts, so there should be something for everybody. The fair is in a big marquee in the Parque los Alamos just north of San Pedro, beside the tobacco museum. It will be open from 5 pm to 9 pm Friday, Saturday and Wednesday, and 11 am – 9 pm on Sunday and Monday.

Puntagorda is celebrating its annual fiesta, of St Maurus the Abbot. On Saturday there’s a romería (something between a religious procession and a party) from the village centre to the old church, followed by a special mass, shared picnic and dance.

There are other fiestas in Concepción, Fuencaliente, Barlovento, and Argual.

Monday is a national holiday, and most shops will be shut, although most food shops will open at least briefly.

Fiesta de Santana in San Jose (Brena Baja)

San Jose in Breña Baja is celebrating its annual fiesta.

Tonight, Sunday 17th
6pm is the Old Folks’ festival, followed by a public dance in front of the town hall.

Tuesday 19th
5pm – 7 pm Bouncy castles in front of the town hall.

9:30 pm . Open-air cinema “Harry Potter y Las Reliquias de la Muerte.” In the football stadium

Wednesday 20th
6:30 pm PASACALLES DISNEY along the main street of San José, accompanied by the Batucada (serious percussion) group Klan Aborígen followed by a Disney festival. “Share a world of dreams with your favourite Disney characters.”
In front of the town hall.

9:30 pm . Open-air cinema “El Discurso del Rey.”
In the football stadium

Thursday 21st
5pm – 7 pm Bouncy castles in front of the town hall.

7 pm. Petanca (bowls) tournament beside the Bar Travesía (on the main street). If you want to take part, sign up at the bar.

8 pm. Helena Turbo Teatro performs “ROMANCERO CANARIO”, a theatrical spectacle for all the family based on Canarian oral history
In front of the town hall.

Friday 22nd
7pm Petanca (bowls) tournament beside the Bar Travesía (on the main street).

7pm. Concert by the town band in the parish hall (beside the new church)

9pm. Performance by the AWARA choir with the musical spectacle “Voces de la emigración”. (Voices of emigration) A musical journey through the sounds that surround an ocean, where the Canary Islands have been a meeting place for cultures.
In front of the town hall.

11pm. Big Fiesta Dj “SUMMER PARTY” organized by Abora Conexión.
In front of the town hall.

Corpus Christi in Breña Baja (San Jose)

Salt carpet for Corpus Christi in San Jose de Breña Baja, La Palma

Salt carpet for corpus christi in San Jose

San Jose in Breña Baja always celebrates Corpus Christi on the Sunday after Mazo’s celebration. Since the whole thing takes out on a flat, tarmaced street, the tradition is to make carpets of coloured salt, with the altars being much more modest. In recent years, many of the carpets are made from seeds and petals, like the ones in Mazo.

Salt carpet for Corpus Christi in San Jose de Breña Baja, La Palma

Salt carpet for corpus christi in San Jose

Much as I love the petals, I think it’s a mistake for San Jose to become a second-rate Mazo. I prefer salt (which I suspect wouldn’t work on Mazo’s steep cobbles, anyway). You can have brighter colours and finer detail.

The carpets are made on the Saturday evening, and stay there until Sunday evening.

Salt carpet for Corpus Christi in San Jose de Breña Baja, La Palma

Salt carpet for corpus christi in San Jose

STARMUS on La Palma

Grantecan, the biggest optical telescope in the world, at sunset

Grantecan, the huge Canarian telescope, at sunset


STARMUS is a unique scientific, artistic and musical event taking place mostly in Tenerife this week, with a truly stellar line-up of speakers and performers. I wanted to go, but I couldn’t afford the time or the money.

I say “mostly in Tenerife” because on Thursday Jack Szostak, Brian May, Richard Dawkins, Kip Thorne, George Smoot, Jill Tarter, Alexei Leonov and Neil Armstrong are coming to the Roque de los Muchachos for a round table discussion in the GTC dome at 7 pm. They’ll be talking about things like: Why do we want to go to space? Why do we need to study the Universe? What are the relative merits of manned versus robotic space missions? Where do we go next?

It will be webcast live at http://www.starmus.com/pages/en/broadcast.php